I’m watching “The Wire.” Yes, I know I’m about a thousand years late, whatever. Anyway, when I mention to anyone that I’m watching it, I get three common reactions:
1. “That show is fantastic.”
2. “Stringer BELL!!!!!”
3. “Dude. I’m NEVER going to Baltimore.”
Fair point. If my only exposure to Charm City had been the depiction presented by “The Wire,” I’d probably find it distasteful as well. However, as a faux-native (because really, life in the suburbs doesn’t count as true residence in a city, even though we suburbanites like to claim that it does), “The Wire” is stirring up all kinds of nostalgia in me. There’s something delightful about my native city’s most recognizable landmark being not an amazing skyscraper or beautiful skyline, but a huge red neon Domino sugar sign. It’s such a symbol of the people! I mean really, the Empire State Building is lovely, but I don’t know anyone who actually works there. But pretty much everybody who’s not diabetic has sugar in the pantry. And that pretty much sums up my general feeling about Baltimore: nothing fancy, not very healthy, and totally personal.
I’ve been a defector from B’more since college, and lived in Chicago since I was 22. So I’m no expert on Baltimore culture in the here and now or as an adult. Nevertheless, my recent exposure to my native city via premium cable has me longing for certain Baltimore cultural hallmarks. And I’d like to share them with all those haters who, after watching “The Wire,” claim that Baltimore looks like one of the middle circles of hell.
A city has a serious issue when the restaurant called The Chicago Diner is…wait for it…VEGAN. Chicago, you need watch some Barry Levinson, or just stop pretending you know what a diner is. Anyone who has been to the Towson Diner, or the Double T, or the ode to utter wackiness that is the Paper Moon, can tell you what a real diner entails. If it doesn’t have a revolving dessert showcase, endless coffee in beige cups and saucers, formica counters and tabletops, and 24-hour service, then it’s not a diner. Period. There is nothing that can beat a grilled cheese sandwich and a chocolate shake at 2am on a Friday, especially when you’re 17 and shrouded in ennui with no other legal place to be outside your own house. Maybe some of the charm has slipped away since everything went smoke-free, but a Baltimore diner is still the best place in the world for an adolescent to vent her late-night angst to her equally angsty friends. Poor Chicago teens. You have no idea what you’re missing.
2. Camden Yards
I will never knock Wrigley Field, having lived mere blocks away from it for years. I love Wrigley’s knockaround, dilapidated charm as much as the next girl. However, Camden Yards is a real treasure, one that combines the tradition of Wrigley Field with the structural soundness of US Cellular, and adds an architectural beauty that no ballpark can rival. It’s gorgeous. I went to a PROM there, for crying out loud. I didn’t grow up in a sporty family and therefore my visits to Camden Yards were few and far between, but the very sight of it coming off Route 95 into downtown always gives me that warm and fuzzy feeling…adjacent purple monstrosity notwithstanding.
3. The Baltimore O
No, I’m not talking about baseball this time. I’m talking about a sacred vowel. Anyone who has spent time chatting with a true native of Baltimore has been given the priceless gift of seeing just how far the letter “o” can really go. B’more folk don’t merely pronounce words with a long “o”; they chew on them, like a big wad of bubble gum. They use their palate and tongue in a way that makes the letter “o” sound vaguely Australian, with a good dose of blue-collar steelworker thrown in. Where Minnesotans round out the long “o,” Bal’mer folks put it through the wringer. My choir teacher damn near lost her mind trying to train the Baltimore “o” out of our pronunciation; it warps the national anthem beyond belief. But I cherish it every time I hear it, and even after 15+ years, sometimes it still creeps in when I say words like “phone” or “home.”
4. The 8×10
I have no idea what this grungy little music club is now called; I know they changed the name, but I really don’t care. All I know is that crowding into the old 8×10 to hear whatever little no-name bands who were working their way through the mid-Atlantic music scene was pretty much the highlight of my young life. There were other venues as well, but none of them beat the 8×10 for its tight fit, seedy interior, and covert charm. You can keep your arenas. The 8×10 is the perfect hole in the wall…whatever it’s called now.
5. Crab feasts
It really is a shame that I can no longer enjoy crab anywhere other than Maryland. But after you’ve been to a crab feast, there’s just no going back. I love the ritual of it all: newspaper on the table, mallet at each place, stacks of paper plates, rolls of paper towels…and best of all, the meticulous step-by-step method of tearing an innocent shellfish to shreds. In no other realm have I ever expended so much effort to ingest so little food, yet few true Marylanders will contest the awesomeness of a good crab feast. You can never have too much Old Bay.
5a. Utz Snacks
Speaking of Old Bay…GOD , I miss Utz. Frito-Lay can’t hold a candle to these mid-Atlantic salty snack gurus. They’re best known for their Crab Chips, but I have yet to come across a bar-b-que or sour cream and onion chip that comes close to Utz’s formula. I used to pound a big grab of Utz from the Royal Farm every day after high school, so that might be one reason why I love them so much; they taste like the promise of free time. None will ever compare.
5b. National Bohemian Beer
Oh, boy, what a beer! It’s the mark of a true working-class city to have its own brand of crappy beer. Like Old Style, Natty Boh has little to recommend itself by way of taste. Its charm rests entirely in its local production and its delightful one-eyed mascot, Mr. Boh. My cousin Dave has a t-shirt with the Utz girl and Mr Boh gazing at each other with heart-shaped eyes. Pretzels and beer, a match made in heaven, but consummated in Baltimore…which is, of course, the Land of Pleasant Living.
6. The Senator
The Senator Theater in Baltimore is a national landmark, and for good reason. There are few movie theaters nowadays where you can sit in the balcony. The joy of the Senator is purely nostalgic, but it packs a powerful punch, from its gorgeous foyer to its huge theater with red velvet seats. Barry Levinson, good Baltimore boy that he is, usually premieres his movies there, which gives the place an uptick in cache. But mostly I just love the idea of sitting in a truly old school movie theater. I wonder if they ever caved and got cup holders.
7. BERGER COOKIES!!!!!
I’ve saved the best for last. The Berger cookie is truly a work of genius: a soft shortbread cookie, about an inch and a half in diameter, absolutely smothered with rich chocolate fudge. Seriously, the ratio of fudge to cookie is about 2:1. I know full well that if I eat more than two I’ll regret it for the rest of the day, yet time and again I find myself working through a third cookie, unable to resist its siren song. Unfortunately they don’t stay fresh for long, even in an unopened package; when I brought three boxes back to Chicago I found them getting moldy on top a week later. There’s too much moisture in the fudge. So I just have to enjoy them while I’m there.
Naturally this is not a comprehensive list. And given the fact that I haven’t lived there full time since I was eighteen, I know there are all kinds of grown-up charms in Baltimore that I just never really got the chance to sample. But I feel pretty good about my compilation, in that it fairly represents my undying love for a city that doesn’t have the greatest reputation. This is not to place any rankings regarding my current home vs my town of origin. I love Chicago, no question. It’s where I became a grown-up, and it’s awesome. But when I watch “The Wire,” I know that deep down, I’ll always be a Baltimore girl.



